What kind of primer should i use

This makes it perfect for filling bodywork blemishes AND achieving a good paint bonding surface at the same time. However, it tends to be a bit more brittle and prone to cracking than urethane or epoxy once dry, so this makes a great primer for small repair and filling jobs but may not be the best choice for an entire car.

Urethane Sealer - This type of primer is best used merely as a strong adhesive layer for the paint to bond to. Urethane sealer doesn't really have any filler capabilities, but is perfect for when you're painting a vehicle that's already in decent condition or you need to seal off a good amount of filler or bodywork.

Acid Etch Primer - Another good, basic car paint primer. Acid etch primer is much like urethane surfacer in that it's forte is not so much corrosion prevention as providing a strong bonding surface for paint. If extra rust prevention is the goal, use acid etch primer in conjunction with a sealer or rust preventative.

This type of primer dries much more quickly than the others, so is used in a lot of body repairs in auto shops to speed up repair time. It also eliminates the need for any metal conditioner, so this is best when applied directly to bare metal and then covered with a secondary primer, like epoxy or urethane.

They have a fair to good level of corrosion resistance. Moisture Cure Urethane Primer - This auto primer is excellent for both paint adhesion and rust protection on difficult repair jobs where complete rust removal is unobtainable, making it an excellent all-around primer choice for completing two jobs at once. It also cures quickly when exposed to the moisture in the atmosphere, so curing times are cut roughly in half.

Whenever you're dealing with bare metal, whether old or new, you'll need to use primer before covering the area with any automotive paint. If you're making small body repairs and need to sand down or grind out a blemish, it's important to protect that area and make sure the paint will bond with the surface in order to further damage from rust or peeling.

The only time you won't need to use primer is if you're not uncovering any bare metal. If you're just lightly buffing away the top layer of paint and haven't uncovered your vehicle's steel panels, then it's ok to forego the primer. This goes for any plastic parts as well. If you're not removing paint down to the bare surface, then the primer is unnecessary. If you're needing a best all-around primer, something that provides a little corrosion protection and allows maximum paint adherence these will be some of your best bets:.

It's a two-component primer, so it's simple to mix, and provides the optimum blend of paint adhesion and corrosion resistance and protection. Epoxy auto primer can be applied on top of everything from fillers and fiberglass to prepared steel or factory finishes. Dry time is quick as well, making this a great all-around auto primer for home mechanics and auto body shops alike. For small touch-ups - polyester primer surfacer is perfect for those little repair jobs that require some light filling or putty, as it has great "build" - meaning it's on the thicker side and has the ability to fill in minor nicks and scratches and sands down well, negating the need for an extra putty or filler step.

Polyester auto primer is perfect for completing small auto body repair jobs and is excellent for spot repairs. For the best rust protection - in situations where rust was present and sanded out, or even where complete rust removal is not an option, moisture cure urethane primer will provide the best protection from further rust damage. Urethane auto primer sands easily, dries quickly, and holds color well. Deciding which type of automotive primer to use doesn't have to be overwhelming or confusing.

Begin by determining which needs are most important when it comes to repairing or repainting your vehicle - will you need extra rust prevention? These primers work with both oil paints and latex paints, making them very versatile and applicable to a wide variety of surfaces.

Wood painted or unpainted , steel and other metals, and surfaces with existing paint, such as interior and exterior walls are ideal surfaces for oil-based primers. Many oil-based primers are good "stain killers" and prevent stains from showing through your new coats of paint.

They are good for blocking stains on your walls from ink, nicotine and water. Oil-based primers are ideal for interior and exterior unfinished or bare wood because they seal the porous surface of wood, enabling the coat of paint to better cover the surface.

They stop tannins, released from woods, such as cedar or redwood, from bleeding through the surface of the paint. They also prevent or slow down paint peeling, cracking and blistering. A drawback of oil-based primers as with oil-based paints , they are often slow-drying and release high amounts of volatile organic compounds VOCs , which can be harmful to people in high concentrations and with prolonged exposure. They also require that you use harsh thinners and solvents to clean brushes and applicators, and have to be disposed of carefully and properly.

Oil-based primers should not be used on masonry. Latex primers are water-based and ideal for prepping unfinished drywall for painting. They are more flexible and fast drying, and are less brittle than oil-based primers, making them less susceptible to peeling and cracking.

They are also good for priming soft wood such as pine , brick and concrete and galvanized metals. Latex primers are good for drywall because they even out the surface of the wallboard and any joint compound applied to it, and any areas that have been patched or repaired.

They also can cover and seal in previous minor stains from smoke, lipstick, crayon, etc. These primers are water-soluble and so are easy to clean. They also come in low- or no-VOC formulas, making them a healthier alternative to oil-based and shellac primers. Shellac has been used for centuries to seal wood and other surfaces. Good for interior paint jobs, shellac-based primers are possibly the best stain-blocking primers, working well on severe water and smoke damage to walls and surfaces — they even seal in smells from smoke damage.

They also are excellent at preventing normal water, rust and smoke stains, as well as wood tannins from bleeding through new paint. They work well on wood, metal, plaster, and even plastic, and are fast drying and highly adhesive. They also can be used with both oil-based and latex paints. The drawback to using shellac-based primers is that they are not as versatile as latex or oil and they give off more fumes.

They require that you use denatured alcohol to thin them and clean applicators. Applying primer is done pretty much the same way as paint. Knowing a few tricks and tips though will have you laying the perfect foundation for your paint projects. Before starting any painting project, you need to thoroughly clean and repair the surface on which you'll be painting.

Wash the wall surface using a damp cloth , mild detergent and water. Patch any holes and wall damage with spackling compound. Scrape off flaky paint using a putty knife. Use synthetic brushes, such as polyester or nylon , with latex primer. Natural bristle brushes work best if you're using oil-based primers.

The deck is low to the ground about 2ft. Last spring we pressure washed it, let it dry for a week in hot weather, then painted it with an oil base primer, followed by a latex exterior paint. Within a few months over the summer and more into the winter, the oil primer started peeling off and cracking.

What to do now? Should I clear off all the loose paint and then re prime with latex primer that can stand the expansion and contraction of the wood better? Just applied a coat of Valspar Multi-purpose Primer on my kitchen ceiling.

It was a white flat latex and looks great with just the primer on it. I decided to paint the dark wood paneling in the den. First, I sanded and cleaned the paneling. Second I applied a oil base Primer and then painted with a latex paint.

After painting with the latex paint, there was bleeding coming through the paint and I repainted it again. The same results occured with the bleeding throuth the paint. I next bought a quart of Zinsser water base primer and spot primed the bleeding spots on the wall.

The same bleeding through the primer happen again. Can I spot test with the Zinsser Bin schellac primer over latex paint to see if it will stop the bleeding through the paint. I am open for anyone who can help me with this problem. I have an old brick building with many, many layers of oil paint. The paint is failing badly. The advice above is conflicting — oil primer is best over multiple layers of exterior oil paint.

Latex paint is best over brick and masonry. I need advice on how to handle this situation. Do I need to prime in the following situation? I plan on repainting the exterior front and back metal railings at my house. The metal railings have always been painted black using Rust-Leum protective enamel oil based. A few rustspots and some chips have appeared since the railings were last painted by a handyman in The Rust-Oleum instructions for preparation state to remove loose paint and rust with a wire brush or sandpaper , clean with soap and water, then apply the paint.

No mention is made of priming. Is priming necessary? But what about priming? Is that also constrained by these temperatures? What happens if it freezes the night after the priming was applied? I would hold off if the temperature will be falling before the paint has time to dry completely.

Hi, I am in the process of painting an old banister in my home. It has a very thin coat I can actually see it wearing away in spots of what I think is varnish. If I sand the banister really well can I use a latex primer before I paint? I plan to do the same thing to my kitchen cabinets. Can I use a latex primer or do I need to use an oil based primer?

Be sure to clean your kitchen cabinets thoroughly before refinishing to remove all the grease and grime. As a final step, I like to wipe cabinets down with mineral spirits on a rag be sure you have lots of ventilation, and turn out pilot lights first to remove any remaining grease, then go over it with a clean, dry rag and allow it to dry before priming.

I notice, checking with Google, that there are an unlimited number of advice sites regarding painting over oil based paint on inside walls with acrylic paint, but nothing about how well applying oil based paint over oil based paint works out.

Hi Joe, Painting over existing interior oil-based paint such as oil-based enamel on trimwork with more oil-based paint poses on problems. Just be sure to clean and lightly sand off the gloss first to aid with adhesion. We are working on an extreme fixer-upper we purchased. The previous owner had rumor has it as many as 40 cats. The smell has been overwhelming.

This past weekend I primed woodwork and doors with B-I-N — Shellac Primer and that seems to have helped remove the residual odor. Do I need to re-prime the doors and woodwork or can I just paint over the primer that is weeks old? Hi Alysa, Check the instructions on the can or primer company website, but as far as I know you should be able to paint over interior primer that only a few weeks old.

Where you run into trouble is exterior primer that has been exposed to the elements for a period of time. Good luck with your project, sounds like a mess! Would you recommend using a shellac based primer with an oil based paint? Thanks for your help! We want to paint it an off white color. Please guide us on type of primer: shellac, oil or latex based recommend a brand must I sand?

Is there a particularly good type of paint that will produce an attractive long lasting finish? Also, do you recommend flat, semigloss or egg shell top coat? Oil or latex? I like Cover Stain from Zinsser, though being oil-based, clean up and odor are more of an issue than with latex.

You should clean the surface and sand or degloss it if it has a gloss finish before priming. I would use a latex wall paint for the topcoat.

You might also want to check out or video on How to Paint Paneling. By the way, the painter we featured in the video is using a latex primer on paneling. Thanks so much, Margaret in AL. I just painted my hall closet with low odor water-based primer. However, now that the hall closet is dry I still smell the odor from the primer. How do I get rid of that smell?

Should I let my hall closet air out more? Thanks Jay in IL. Hi Jay, I would leave the door to the closet open, with a fan in the opening to circulate air, and allow the primer to dry thoroughly for a few days before painting over the primer with a finish coat of paint.

We used it in our house, since my wife is very sensitive to odors, and it worked great with almost no smell at all.

I have patched up a bunch of holes in my wall with plaster and was wondering which primer to use to give my wall a smooth appearance before I paint. I want to make sure that the sanded areas from the plaster are well hidden and that the whole wall is uniformed.

Please advise with the best brand and model sku to use. We just finished a room in our basement. Our daughter colored all over the walls on the bare drywall with Crayola washable markers.

We primed with a latex primer and the marker seaps through so we then did touch ups with an oil based primer and it still seaps through. The paint person at Home Depot says that is not going to work and everything is going to peel because we used two different primers and we should sand the whole thing down and use oil based primer on the whole thing.

What can we do to fix our problem? Hi Tamra, I had a redwood door that bled through the latex primer, so I reprimed it with an oil-based primer after it had thoroughly dried. I am painting my cabinets to give them a refreshed look. I need to prime them before I paint them. How can I safely prime my cabinets indoors? Could I possibly tape plastic blocking off the rest of the house to keep the fumes from other parts of the house?

Will fume leak through the plastic? Is there an other alternative to the strong chemical primer? I primed a newly drywalled bathroom with shellac primer. It went on like water, did not cover and had to reapply Olympic low voc primer which i had tinted to properly cover walls. Now there is a very pungent odor in the bathroom coming from the walls. It has been 3 days and it still smells very bad.

What do I do? Still need to put on final coat of latex paint. Please help. I just primed my bathroom cabinets wood with laminate interior with a latex paint.

I then read this and many other articles that recommend using an oil based primer on laminate surfaces — can I use a shellac based primer directly over the latex primer or will I not get the bond that I need?

Hi Erin, Primer serves two main functions: it provides a good bond between the surface that is being painted and the primer, and it gives a good bond between the primer and topcoat of paint. In the case of latex primer over a slick material, like glossy oil-based enamel paint or plastic laminate, there will probably not be a very good bond between the laminate surface and the latex primer. You could test the bond between the latex primer and laminate by scraping the primer with a fingernail or applying a piece of tape and pulling it off in an inconspicuous spot to see if the primer adhered well.

If the primer easily peels off, your best bet would be to strip off the primer and start from scratch with an oil-based or shellac-based primer. If the bond between the laminate and latex primer is okay, then just topcoat with your finish paint, since the bond between the latex primer and topcoat should be fine. I am planning to paint the Pilings which support my house. The Pilings are unpainted 8 x 8 pressure treated lumber and have been in the ground for 12 years.

What is the best type and brand of ecterior grade primer for this application? Hi Coe, I would use an exterior latex primer to paint the pressure treated piling on your house. My husband and I just bought our first home and have begun the process of painting and are becoming quite frustrated. We have sanded and cleaned the walls. We have primed them using a latex mildew resistant primer we live near the ocean. We have taped using an expensive tape that supposedly prevents bleed through.

After the six hours the directions on the primer say to wait, we paint our latex top coat. Our problem is that the primer peels off with the tape as does the top coat. We have tried waiting a half hour to peel off the tape and that did not help.

We waited only five to ten minutes to peel the tape and the same thing occurred. We also tried taping and removing it after only priming and the primer peeled off. We would really prefer to not have buy oil based primer, but if that is the best option, we will do it. We also bought an edger that should prevent us from having to tape the edges at all, if it works.

We would really appreciate any advice on how to fix this aggravating issue. Thank You!!! Hi Jeanne, Sound like you have a very weak bond between the old surface and the new primer. I am sanding down my front door to bare wood. I want to do what will cover the best and last the longest. I have a Zinnser primer for exterior and interior latex paint, but am debating going to get some oil based.

Will I notice a big difference in the longevity of the paint job and the smoothness of my latex paint over it? I am going to use Duramax I believe. I just purchased a home and am re-rocking the ceillings, is there a primer I can use on new dry-wall as well as old painted walls that have been magic-markered on?

I want to use a product that I can spray the entire house walls and ceillings at one shot. Your best bet would be to spot prime the marks on the walls, then prime over everything with a latex primer assuming the wall were previously painted with latex paint.

Is it necessary to prime between if you are painting with latex, on top of latex? If the existing paint has a high gloss, you might want to lightly sand off the gloss before painting. I am getting ready to paint new drywall. Will I be safe in using the new paint that has primer mixed into the paint, or should I first use a primer and then paint?

I plan on using latex paint for easy cleanup. Any advice would be much appreciated as I am getting different answers from the paint stores I have talked to. Another option would be to tint wall primer close to your final wall color so the topcoats will cover better.

Good luck with your project. Hi, we bought an older home, the previous owner painted water-based latex over oil-based paint without primer. I did not know that before I painted the bathroom, the paint just peeled off. I have tried several primers, but the paint still peels off or chips off when bumped. Help, what to do now? Do I need to sand off all the water-based paint and then primer before painting? Hi Kathleen, I have the same situation in my house as well.

The only way to fix it, is to remove the latex paint down to the oil-based by stripping or sanding, then lightly sand the oil-based and prime it with an oil-based bonding primer like Zinsser Cover Stain , before topcoating it with oil or latex. I used the Kilz-2 latex primer over a bright yellow Behr flat enamel latex interior paint. My problem is that the yellow color can be seen through the primer coat. Do I do a 2nd coat of primer, or do I go ahead and paint the walls with possibly 2-coats of paint instead Behr flat enamel latex interior paint again?

The new paint will be close in the value of the wall color with the primer on it, but a little more toward the green family of colors. Please advise…thanks! Two light coats of paint are always better than one heavy one.

I just finished priming some dark stained woodwork with a water base primer, but it is not doing a very good job of sealing and color from the stain is bleeding through. Would applying a pigmented shellac Zinser BIN over this primer stop the this bleed through. How longshould I let the let the water base primer dry before applying the shellac. Hi Dave, I had the same problem with redwood bleeding through a water based primer.

After it had dried thoroughly for a couple of days I coated it with oil-based Cover Stain primer, and it adhered well and stopped the bleeding through. My guess is that shellac based primer would do okay over latex primer once the latex has dried thoroughly , but I would read the instructions and perhaps even contact the manufacturer to be sure, since alcohol is the solvent for both latex and shellac based primer.

My wood garage door was accidentally primed before applying the stain. How do I remove the primer and stain again. Please help, I do not want to make mistake again. The doors in the upstairs floor of my Prairie Craftsman home were originally varnished. Previous owners painted over the varnish with oil and then latex paint which is now chipping off.

How can I remove the chipping paint without damaging the varnish underneath which is actually really beautiful? I recently purchased a home. The walls are painted green with latex paint. Do I have to prime white walls if I am painting them white? I have plaster walls that have been previously painted on. I have tried painting over some of the walls in one room with a latex paint and have now put 4 coats on and still can see through to the last paint job.

What type of primer to I need to use? Also, what other types of preparations do I need to do the walls prior to painting? I have a lot of rooms left to paint!! Thank you! Hi Erica, Unless your walls are a very bright or dark color, or you have stains on them, one coat of a quality, stain blocking latex primer should followed by two top coats of wall paint should do it.

If not, try a coat or two of either a quality, oil-based stain blocking primer such as Zinsser Cover-Stain or a shellac-based stain blocking primer like Zinsser BIN followed by two top coats of wall paint. Howdy, I have recently acquired a piece of mtn property with a 10 yr old manufactured home in excellent condition except the owner was a heavy smoker.

What primer do you recommend to cover the nicotine stains and prevent bleed thru on the topcoat? The textured ceiling and walls are not painted- just the regular wall materials found in manuf homes.

I plan on using BEHR paints for the top coat. Thanx in advance. It will be too hard to clean the roller, so I would use an inexpensive one with a fairly long nap, then throw it away. Shellac-based primer is smelly stuff and flammable, so open up all the windows, turn off pilot lights, and put a box fan in the window. Excuse me…. I forgot to ask…. TIA again. We purchased the house last October in the Chicagoland area.

The house is a rehab and has two exterior decks; one being a pool deck and the other is the main house deck 19 x 15 with an 8 x 8 bumpout. The main house deck was old and stained a solid ugly chocolate brown. Now as the weather has begun to slightly warm, the oil-based stain on the floor of the main deck and the handrails is chipping off in places and is down to bare wood. When we bought the house, we were hoping to lighten the color up to maybe a regular brown vs.

From what I understand, the easiest way to fix this would be to scrape off what we can and sand the edges and then apply an oil-based primer. Give it a period of time to dry say a couple days and then topcoat it with an oil-based solid color stain of our choice? As well, with this situation, is it best to continue with the oil-based products or should we switch over to water-based Chicagoland area?

As far as oil-based vs. My husband and I used two coats of primer and still the old wood finish is bleeding through…. I am remodeling a s farm house and have kept three rooms ceilings the original tonge and grove pine boards. The next best choice, which is easier to apply, would be to prime the ceilings with a stain blocking oil-based primer like Zinsser Cover-Stain , before topcoating with latex paint. Hi, my apartments painted my restroom with oil based primer and then with latex paint.

Hi i am currently painting a ceiling for someone else it has a yellow stain on from water leaking through i have painted this and its still showing through i have also sugar soaked it but still no signs of going what is the best way to get rid of this stain. Hi Gemma, Try painting it with a high quality stain blocking oil-based or shellac based primer. We just finished our basement and primed the new drywall.

Do we have to put paint on top right away? What consequences could we face? Although it is a fairly dry basement, it will be humid at times. I painted one wall and an archway using oil based primer my error. The smell is overwhelming and it has been 7 days. And can it trap the toxins that are coming into the air? How long could it potentially take to fully cure and for the odor to subside? Thank you so much in advance. Hi, Last year we remodeled our three porches, we used pre-treated railing.

It is already peeling up,even the primer; its not adhering to the new lumber we used. What can we do to repaint and not have this happen again in a couple months? The cabinet fronts are solid wood, some side panels are a very thin veneer of a wood looking material. Any tips? Next, sand the cabinets lightly with fine grit sandpaper to remove any gloss and help the primer to adhere, and wipe the cabinets down with a tack rag to remove any dust. Then prime the cabinets I prefer an oil-based primer on woodwork, such as Zinsser Cover Stain with a high quality, stain blocking primer.

If the surface of the primer feels rough after it has dried, sand it lightly with fine sandpaper and wipe off any dust. Finally, apply two topcoats of high quality enamel paint either oil or latex. Thanks for help!!

I just purchase a home and the owner painted the family room dark blue. I want to repaint it to an eggshell white colour. I went to Home Depot and they recommended those 2-in-1 primer and paint combo.

The eggshell white I like to paint is just waterbase, not semi-gloss or satin. I want to keep things simple. I would like to know if I can use Kilz on a bathroom door and frame before painting.

The bathroom door has privously had wall paper on it. I was wondering if I painted my new dry walled ceiling with the zinsser brand bullseye latex dark tint primer if I really had to wait 7 days to apply my latex paint over it? It seems like a very long time to have to wait between coats and if I have to could you explain to me why exactly. I have a few gallons of Kilz Interior Acrylic Latex Paint and would like to use it up on the interior of an outside shed.

Will this paint work or will it peel? I am thoroughly disgusted with Zinser Bin The guys at the paint store recommended it to cover old water stains on a ceiling. After application and drying I painted the ceiling with Valspar Premium ceiling paint. Now there are shiny strips where the was applied.

The product did cover the stains but it is almost uglier now. Any remedy for this? I hired a painter to refinish the wood frames of the sliding glass doors. They were originally oil based stained and then sealed polyurethane.

The painter applied a very dark stain while I was away and I want to know if it can be removed and the lighter stain that I purchased used in its place. I would like an answer from you all since I no longer trust this painter.

I sanded and used oil primer.. It bubbled when weather turned moist later in fall. What to do now??? Staircase, started with carpet, pulled off, then after sanding and cleaning, used a Stain on every other step. Failed to remove all of Stain so it was Tacky. Took Mineral spirits rubbed down. And the stairs were alot less tacky but not completely dry either. So decided to switch to paint. Applied oilbased primer that said will hide the Stain. Very thick.

Applied one coat to the stairs without Stain dried quickly, But the stairs with Stain still kinda tacky.. If not can I paint a latex based paint over and will that dry ok, or will it be tacky too? Air Cond going with fans constantly…Any and all help much appreciated. Thank You. Any suggestions? Waaay to much to remove, etc.